溫哥華美食|舌尖上的溫哥華:卅二公館

海馬老爸
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IPFS
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說到溫哥華的高檔(fine dining)中餐廳,十之八九的人應該都會提到卅二公館(Mott32)

加拿大西岸頂級中餐一哥

來自香港,2017年在溫哥華開業,地點就選在溫哥華市中心川普大樓的一樓。以港式中菜為骨幹,融入現代中餐風格,挾著香港卅二公館米其林二星的名號,該餐廳已經在新加坡、美國拉斯維加斯落腳,佔據每個城市頂級中餐的位階。

隨著美國總統的更替、溫哥華川普飯店的關閉,加上疫情肆虐,卅二公館也在2020年八月暫時拉下鐵門。West Georgia Street上超高大樓一時安靜下來,直到去年年底傳出即將有新飯店入駐川普飯店原址,卅二公館也重新開張,廚房爐灶被點燃,鑊氣香味再次飄揚。

海馬老爸在二月中旬應邀前往卅二公館,品嘗該餐廳復業後的菜譜。

多年後再訪卅二公館

跟數年前第一次前來用餐的印象中一樣,餐廳內裝還是銅金色系的奢華古典風,以金屬、玻璃、石材、原木各種元素交錯,以屏風、鳥籠、燈籠、紗等等區隔出或大或小的用餐空間。高矮的吊燈下光線迷離,偶見中國花鳥畫與書法點綴牆面,而最讓人印象深刻的,就屬洗手間前廊道那一巨幅京劇旦角的畫像,路經時電影《霸王別姬》的鑼鼓聲彷彿在耳。

畢竟是休業一年半後的首次媒體餐敘,卅二公館幾乎將拿手好菜盡數端上來款待。一共7大類14道菜餚,包含前菜、主食和餐後甜點飲料,讓拿著菜單在座十多位的中外賓客充滿期待。

或許菜餚的喜好見仁見智,但卅二公館的用餐環境以及服務品質依然維持在高水準,服務人員主動積極、動作麻利,對菜餚的介紹也十分到位;惟因為生意不錯,賓客滿座的結果免不了較大的吵雜聲。

整體來說,我個人認為卅二公館對肉類的調理較佳,不論是魚、鴨或是豬肉,都讓人印象深刻。蔬菜類餐點則過於一般,與坊間港式海鮮餐廳並無二致。

經典的山珍與海味

菜色太多,我只挑幾道討我歡心的菜餚來介紹。

北京烤鴨

如果比起另一家高檔中餐廳品味長安,卅二公館的烤鴨少了淋油、火燒等讓人眼睛一亮的廚師桌邊表演。

保留了桌邊的片鴨動作,端上桌的是一盤盤油亮琥珀色的鴨肉。最讓人吃驚的是用來包夾鴨肉的麵皮,從蒸籠取出、裹入鴨肉和配料,直到送入口中,麵皮始終軟嫩,可以感受廚師在和麵和保持餅皮濕度上下了不少功夫。

蜜汁叉燒

挑選肥瘦適中的西班牙伊比利豬,以蜂蜜、李子和叉燒醬醃製,暗紅色的叉燒肉在燈光下閃閃發亮,軟嫩的口感豐腴適中。過於甜膩是美中不足之處,濃醬遮掩了該有的肉味。

黑松露野菇生菜包

我本來就是嗜菇之人,數種野菇的組合的這道菜狠狠地掐住我的脾胃。兩片黑松露當然是目光的焦點,但厲害之處是咬下後濃郁松露香氣的菇類從口中竄入鼻腔,我已顧不得因為沒拿好,菇鬆從生菜碗掉落一地的狼狽樣。

煙燻黑鱈魚

服務人員還沒掀開碗蓋,食客們都已將手機、相機對準盤中飧。當碗盅移開的那一瞬間,煙幕盤旋數秒後散去,墨褐色的魚柳現身在淺盤放射狀的藍色條紋上有如光芒萬丈。黑鱈魚先經油炸,再裹上糖醋醬衣,最後煙燻上桌。

這道魚有點濃油赤醬的上海本幫菜風味,過重的調味搶過黑鮪魚的鮮;同桌食客則抱怨濃厚的煙燻味沾染身上衣物,我倒不以為意,讓人想起夏日湖邊烤肉的愜意。

小小高潮的回馬槍

甜點

金瑤黑蒜海鮮炒飯是最後一道菜,因為米粒口感略為乾柴的缺點,加上眾人多已飽腹,因此這道菜動手的人極少,大多被裝盒打包。但飯後甜點香芒椰汁糯米卷的金黃外皮,灑滿細白椰肉,讓我鬆開皮帶還是囫圇下肚。芒果和椰絲香氣交錯,糯米口感滑順,有若最後一塊拼圖,讓這頓晚餐終究圓滿。

咖啡

散場之前,服務生詢問要不要來杯咖啡?還沒等眾人回答,他就推來一小餐車,點燃卡式瓦斯爐,拿起玻璃葡萄酒杯,兀自表演起來。只見他左右各持一玻璃杯在火上翻轉微烤,然後快速倒入白蘭地,一高一低如印度拉茶般傾倒酒液。高濃度的酒精遇火則燃,不完全燃燒的青色火焰在空中蜿蜒成一條青蛇,反覆出現在服務生兩手的杯子間。最後倒入咖啡液、Kahlua利口酒,擺上糖棒,一杯飛龍咖啡(Dragon Coffee)大功告成。

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延伸閱讀:溫哥華美食|首本名菜2021年獲獎者出爐,一年外食的餐廳有著落了

將飛龍咖啡一飲而盡,帶著滿口的白蘭地酒氣,我離開卅二公館,踏入溫哥華冬季的夜色。想著,今年的生日應該可以呼朋引伴再來品嘗烤鴨和煙燻鱈魚的美味。

(以下為本次媒體餐敘所有菜餚)


Mott32 卅二公館@溫哥華

Address: 1161 W Georgia St, Vancouver, BC V6E 0C6

Phone: (604) 861-0032

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原文連結溫市笑應

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