今夏终章|过京都往滋贺,水秀山青人和
十月从浦东机场回程haruka号的发车时间几乎和首次到京都时差不多。火车上翻了自己写的游记…来日本四回,只去过一次京都。
停滞时间里,无数次想念鸭川的漫步、想念青莲院的放空,即将成行了。出站时,用日语和工作人员说想将车票留作纪念。一日三城,一天也就差不多结束了。
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第二天,去京都站附近的咖啡馆吃早餐,小川咖啡完全点赞。
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游客不是一般的多,整个枢纽都异常忙碌。地铁去青莲院,路上走走。
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修缮中的青莲院,也像秘境,基本没什么游客,坐在那里,美好、宁静会分分钟流向心里。在六年前和朋友坐过的位置拍了照,“为了没有忘却的纪念”。
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有个片刻不能更美。是两位无言的阿姨,静静坐着,交谈不多,相顾无言的坦然自若,可能是真正的亲密吧。那一刻特别想念老友,希望我们60岁时也一起在花满开的庭院里就只是坐坐。
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(老铁看到我发的广播特来留言,要我把时间提前,那希望越早越好啦)
在青莲院坐了好长时间,因为疲倦,可能连续外出两周是目前旅途的极限,也可能是生理期要提前了。。
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在京都,和西子卡没能碰面,有点遗憾,但我想,那些经过等待和静候的“再约”,也把美好延长了。
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吃过午餐打算在京都站的伊势丹逛逛,其他地方人肯定都不少。购买清单减负之后,发现人真正需要的东西有时候也很少,不逛比较省钱=。=逛完准备jr去滋贺。
这是我第一次去滋贺,为什么会知道这里…因为sk2的唯一水源地琵琶湖实在太美。
另外,早年认识的网友小药水在大津经营民宿,朋友们如果经营餐厅、经营民宿、经营商店,怎能不到场支持!
而冲浪时拾得的“消失的远方、珍贵的日常”也疗愈了忧愁的三年吧。活着时走出门看风景、吃美食,是伸向抽象世界的触角。
滋贺确实“不负所托”。
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小药水家被花树包围,先收获了真实琵琶湖的第一眼。
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附近散步也是舒适极了。云朵极美,仿佛天空狂醉。正是因为不住在这里,才有那么足的动力去感受、珍视不可多得的一刻。
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感谢小药水精心推荐了三条路线,我优先考虑的是交通便利程度。次日先去了旧竹林院,顺便在日吉大社附近逛逛,这里似有和灵隐的微妙联动。令人欣喜。
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旧竹林院就不用多写了,想起当年五点不到就早起去琉璃光院排队的晨间,旧竹林院则更加隐于市,静谧安然、330円感人。坐下来就不肯走的懒惰自在,是安宁的质感。
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看着几位工作人员劳动不停,像从前一样佩服,红叶季只会更美。云层微厚,阳光一晃而过,天空的不时舞蹈,比什么都美妙,而人常常忘看。
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期待会有落空,没有期待反而令遇见或以欣喜填充。感觉一天中有了“旧竹林”时间、哪怕只能看10%的风景,也足够了。
不再醉心于打卡,玩要变成真正的放松、随意,不再执着于一天要有多美,为生活寥寥涂几笔的意愿,更美。
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旧竹林院有一侧是大衫茶屋,继续在这里坐坐,挥霍和浪费时间是必要的。
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当日状态低迷,又被滋贺风景治愈。比叡山延历寺爬至一半,风吹难扛,有一刻钟,喜悦无影无踪。我感觉体力不支,可能要半途而废,而我,再也不是那个在HK突发过敏也能去石澳走两万步的人了。中途看到了美景,小半之路,也有小满。
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放过自己,半路折返,那份难言的心情,途中分享给信任的朋友时,舒缓了一些。虽然对日式氛围很熟悉,但怎么看都看不腻。
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还是去城里玩吧哈哈哈哈。到大津港的时候,眼前画面链上耳朵里听到的“只要想远飞,亦可自创我的搜shen记”,整个人又活了过来。
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去了平安神宫,准备坐电车休息一下。
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想起来,从十月三号晚上就没好好吃饭了…在Goo找了一家餐厅,飞奔去吃近江牛了!!这是永生难忘的一刻。
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很是享受,但吃完就陷入了深深的自责。其中因由也不多提了,翻篇的故事就算啦。花了一周多时间才走出“自省与内耗”,所有事仅需有个限度,体验无价,反省有边。
最后还是很开心享用了值得的晚餐。
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在滋贺的第三天,参加了小药水无牌旅行团!先去了近江八幡的药师町附近,这样的风格,甚至是我不熟的日本。
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当时出门忘记带钱包了,心想完了,没有现金能坐缆车吗?加上去La Collina Ōmi-Hachiman会想买点心,不想拎东西坐缆车,就先到了八幡山口,可以paypay,烦恼全无。强迫症无论什么角度看霓虹的风景,都好顺眼。
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下山后去逛商店,一路都很美,红叶季、樱花季会有多美?向往与想象,只会打败我!
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到了“商店”,又是一轮失语的畅游。无论城市、乡间,日本商业那发达又夺目的设计和审美,永远给人惊喜。
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终于来琵琶湖巡礼了!而我已经舍不得买神仙水了(不是……
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在附近的湖景餐厅吃了饭😊牛肉也很好…
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小药水旅行团有一招很好,是安排时间差。下午车行比叡山,一路景好人少。中途去吃了甜品,价格和出品都惊呆我,比东京便宜太多,更重要的是还有这样的风景相伴。
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又看到了一天的夕阳。“凤梨罐头会过期,但好天气、美景与好心情永远不会过期”,它们注入回忆,汇成心中无形的山水。
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晚上先去看了“准备中”的大津祭。
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接着去大津港附近走走。突然有个日本小哥连说了两句失礼します。。我一看不会对我说的吧,就用手指了指自己…一天结束了,没想到还能练练口语。应该说听他聊了几句。
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看着他在收杆,鱼呢是一条都没有,也不好意思夸他技术华丽什么的,能用的形容词当然是都说三遍,没有词汇量就尽力也是礼貌啊!最搞笑的是,他夸自己英语好,能说たくさん量级的英语,我想诶?是想找个人练英语啊,又改用英语好好夸了一下…
这样的闲暇,出现在东京的概率是比较低的。也是一种有趣,明天就要回去了,而人能有个随时能返回的地方,正是旅行的意义吧。
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10月8日是计划中的返程日,早晨又去了趟彦根城。但肚子疼,错过彦根猫的表演时间了。听到了可爱灵魂突然破碎的声音,就车站坐了坐,来都来了,全是遗憾也太遗憾了,装模作样把“散步到地老天荒”演完吧。
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看着镜头里最后的山水盛景,心里很舍不得,风景有很多,心动也很多,却有道别等游客。
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来到尾声的三地之旅的最后环节:首次搭乘京都去东京的新干线(多谢匿名朋友的照拂)
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回程路上天色阴沉,也难掩日式风景的秀丽与蓬勃。秋雨飘落,回到东京,也回到了节奏的鼎沸。
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后记:游记承担着一趟行程的“全剧终”。今年6月至10月的足迹,完结。
回忆短暂地改变了“出走”,雕刻一些意想不到的出门的美好。不断来日本旅行、还要继续日本旅行,感受最深的部分,和旅行无关。
风景中真正的魅力在于“令人和”,如果认真欣赏、认真端详,日本的美有一种超越自然风光的精致、易逝与气和。天空之城再美,也是飘渺的。以心去对自然迫切敬畏、呵护,风景才会拍拍人,把你我变成“和”的一部分。
好风景多的是,随时出发,都会不相似。愿,“再度重相逢”。站在这里时,“秋天了”。
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原文链接:https://www.douban.com/note/855483949/?_i=9498093P-SYIOX,6253381WFPf6hB
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