Coffee is a kind of nostalgia for a better life

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Author: People in the Room (Social Science Researcher)

When it comes to specialty coffee, what is your first reaction? Expensive? High style? Tastes good?

According to the definition of the Specialty Coffee Association (SCA), a cupping score of 80 points or above can be called specialty coffee, while a cupping score below 80 points is commercial coffee.

If Expresso-based American-style, latte and other Italian coffees are daily necessities for many people, then a 55-yuan cup of specialty coffee in Macau is definitely a luxury.

In fact, specialty coffee has not been popular in the country for a long time. It is said that Terra was the first coffee shop to sell specialty coffee. Two years later, in the catering industry survey of the Macau Bureau of Statistics, coffee shops were included in the statistics for the first time. As shown in the figure below, as of 2020, there are a total of 117 coffee shops with a negative profit ratio and a loss of 14.15 million patacas.

Two interesting pieces of information are reflected here. First of all, as a city of 680,000 people, Macau has more than 100 coffee shops, which is quite an astonishing number. This shows that there are many "coffee friends" who are willing to spend real money to buy coffee every day.

Sociologists and anthropologists will tell you that buying coffee is not only a pure consumption behavior, but also a manifestation of class and personal life taste. Therefore, when Starbucks entered China in 1999 and opened a large number of branches, it was understood to be a self-construction of the Chinese middle class. Even though they may not consider themselves "middle class", it does not prevent them from realizing their imagination of leisure and a better life while sitting in a coffee shop. Even from the moment you walk out of the store, you will be greeted by "996" and "death from overwork."

Although according to the analysis of Liu Zuyun and Wang Danfeng, the so-called middle class in Macau also lacks class consciousness. But Tim Simpson from the Department of Communication at the University of Macau found that the logic of coffee as a life practice of self-construction also applies to Macau.

Second, drinking coffee is certainly something to enjoy, but opening a coffee shop is another matter. In fact, due to the small market, high rents, and high labor costs in Macau, it is difficult for self-employed coffee shops that are not chain brands to survive. In all likelihood, they will close down due to loss of money. Statistics clearly illustrate this point.

So if someone goes from being a coffee lover to jumping into a pit of fire to open his own shop, then that’s probably true love, right? Johnson, the owner of "Original Coffee", has a strong love for coffee.

In his early years, Johnson went to college in Chiayi, Taiwan, where he came into contact with specialty coffee for the first time and began to feel the charm of coffee. The relaxation in Chiayi and the warmth of the cordial interaction between baristas and customers there have always been something Johnson will never forget when he returns to Macau. So I started to learn how to brew by hand, and then started to play with roasting. Unexpectedly, the coffee beans I produced for free were appreciated by my friends, and they even asked if they could sell them. So I established my own brand "Original Coffee" in the past few years, and opened a physical store in March this year at Shop 1C, Shui Zi Lane, Hebian Xin Street.

When I asked there are more than 100 coffee shops in Macau, what is so special about "original coffee". Johnson said that although there are many shops selling specialty coffee in Macau, there are still very few shops specializing in specialty coffee, especially Taiwan specialty coffee beans. In fact, Taiwan’s specialty coffee beans have been getting better and better in recent years, and have become frequent recipients of awards in international coffee product evaluation competitions. And because Taiwan is close to Macau, compared to the transportation time of coffee beans from Africa and South America, which often take several months or even half a year, the best freshness can be guaranteed.

On the day I visited the store, I tried Taiwan Alishan Tanning. The coffee shop has a darker roasting degree that is common with Taiwanese beans. When it is first brewed at a high temperature, the entrance tastes heavier and has a chocolatey feel. After the temperature drops in the later stages, it has a stronger sweetness, which personally feels like bean paste. Finally, The body of this bean is pure and thick. Overall it is good to drink and it is not the common "bulk" single-origin bean flavor. I highly recommend friends who have never tasted Taiwanese beans to give it a try.

Johnson also said that he hopes to bring the interaction between baristas and customers that he felt in Chiayi to Macau. He does not want selling coffee to become a purely commercial activity. Although the store is currently small, customers can read and chat leisurely in the store if they like. Perhaps this is not so much a feature of "original coffee", but rather a reflection of Johnson's appreciation of Taiwan and the beautiful life he once felt. Be nostalgic.

Original Coffee: IG | Address

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