Temporary travel notes on Mount Emei (1)
This trip to Emei achieved several achievements:
- From Baoguo Temple at the foot of the mountain to the Golden Summit on foot
- overnight temple
- Take the cable car of Mount Emei
- wrestling with monkeys
- no broken hands
The first item was the most difficult. It took me two days. When I reached the top the next day, I felt like I was going to lose my breath when I squatted down and took off my crampons.
As can be seen from the picture above, there are many options for hiking and climbing, and I chose the line drawn by black pen, from Baoguo Temple to Fuhu Temple to Qingyin Pavilion to Wannian Temple to Xixiangchi to Jin The top, a total of 46 kilometers, took two days.
- first day
It took 9 hours to climb the mountain, climbed from Baoguo Temple at an altitude of 533 meters to the Xixiang Pool at an altitude of 2050 meters, a total of 30 kilometers and a cumulative climb of 2000 meters. My iwacth automatically records, only 24 kilometers, but others say that it is 30 kilometers, so let's say 30, who is not greedy for vanity, and the data is good-looking? Convince yourself that the watch is recording horizontal distances because it automatically recognizes that it is hiking, not mountaineering, or off-roading.
Emei is a place where Confucianism, Buddhism and Taoism coexist, and the low mountain area contains mountains, temples and various Taoist temples. Because I lacked understanding of these three, plus I had to wear a mask at the entrance of each temple and scan the site code to allow entry, I simply gave up the idea.
Taoism and Buddhism are both polytheistic religions, and the gods offered in each temple are different and may perform their own duties. I don't know if those people who go into the temple to burn incense and kowtow can understand whether the things they are asking for are within the purview of the gods and Buddhas on the opposite side. Among the people I know, many can burn incense, and can read the Bible, but none. Unlike Christianity and Islam, there is only one scripture, which is easy to enter. There seem to be too many scriptures in Buddhism and Taoism. A Muggle like me tries to understand it, but does not know where to start. I really like the Buddhist concept of "compassion", which is similar to the humanism in modern civilization. At present, I have read the book of Deuteronomy in the Old Testament, but I have not found this.
Off topic.
There is a ticket check point between Zhongfeng Temple and Guangfu Temple. You need to buy a ticket to enter. Adult ticket is 160 yuan. The previous mountain temples can be visited for free. Between Zhongfeng Temple and Qingyin Pavilion, there was a big downhill, which made me flustered, worried about going the wrong way, and worried about the debts behind. Before that, I didn't have enough homework and still wanted to take another longer route up the mountain.
In Qingyin Pavilion, the eldest sister who was soliciting customers on the side of the road dragged her into her house for dinner. After asking, I found out that there is a closer road, which is also 15 kilometers away from the washing elephant pool. It is good to be able to arrive before dark, so I changed my mind. The eldest sister expected to charge me thirty or forty yuan at most. I didn’t expect that I would be too generous. One person ordered two dishes, one fish-flavored pork shreds, and one wild vegetable baked egg, totaling 65 yuan. The taste is far from the promotion. The "master" of the cooking came to hear the sound, and when the dishes were on the table, I turned my head and saw the back of him leaving. The clothes on his shoulders were covered with a layer of soil. There are earthworms in it. When his dog saw the food on the table, he ran over and squatted at my feet and looked at me eagerly, so most of the two dishes went into his stomach. The eldest sister was a "gift of gratitude". Before she left, she saw the bamboo pole I picked up halfway as a stick, and gave me a good one. She even said thank you for taking care of the business.
It was also in Qingyin Pavilion, the second time I met a father and son who passed by at the foot of the mountain. The father is about forty years old, and the child is about ten years old. He started walking all the way in front of me, each carrying a backpack, being the father's lead, constantly turning his back to encourage his son, and teaching him how to save his energy, which I am quite envious of. I envy my son as well as my father. Later, when they entered the temple, I took the lead. In Qingyin Pavilion, the father took a picture of his son. Perhaps his son was a little tired. I heard the father shout to his son in a cheerful tone: Be sunny, don't have a loser's expression.
At the rest point in front of Wannian Temple, there was another female boss soliciting customers, and I went all the way to Wannian Temple. At first I thought it was just a drop-in, casual chat, quite pleasant. She said that her family grows tea, which is the famous "Emei Xueya", and wanted to invite me to drink a cup. Later, when I heard that I was going to wash the elephant pool, I insisted that it was impossible, "There are still more than 20 kilometers from here, and the slope is so steep that we locals can't reach it." At the bus station, take a sightseeing bus to Leidongping. That way, she will pass by her house, and you can go in and have tea and rest. After I refused to say anything, she ignored me and left on her own. But when she said this, I felt a little bit of a drum in my heart. If there are more than 20 kilometers left, then I really won't be able to get there. However, the farmhouse in Qingyin Pavilion clearly stated that it was more than ten kilometers away, and it was also full of confidence for me to arrive in time for darkness.
In Xixin, I met a mother and daughter, about the same age as the previous father and son. Mother wore leather boots, had long hair, and was obviously not good at sports. The daughter is physically strong and has been encouraging her mother. Confirm the distance with them, and confirm that the soliciting girl of Wannian Temple has bad intentions. The mother and daughter’s destination was also the Elephant Pool, but I didn’t like walking with strangers, so I went first. Later, when he was attacked by monkeys in front of the Elephant Washing Pool, he thought of the mother and daughter. If such a thing happened, I would be terrified. But until they went to sleep, they didn't see them coming to the temple to settle down. They must have settled down in the middle. fine.
From the rest of the mind, there is a big downhill. Later, it climbed all the way to the section in front of the Xixiangchi, which has to climb 400 meters, with more than 1,800 steps in a row, which is called "Drilling Sky Slope". In addition, the altitude is getting higher and the snow and ice are getting thicker, which makes people exhausted. There is a small shop less than 100 meters from the end point. The owner is an uncle who came to greet me for dinner when he saw me. It was getting late, and I was in a hurry to hurry. I didn’t want to eat. The uncle said that it would take five minutes to arrive at the Elephant Washing Pool. It was past the meal time in the temple, so I could only eat here. So I went back, took off the crampons, and asked for a portion of twice-cooked pork, 40 yuan. The menu says "cooked pot silk". The uncle said that it was a menu printed by the Tourism Bureau. I made a mistake and they ordered the price. I asked if I wanted to pay the Tourism Bureau, and I said no, the Tourism Bureau would also give them a subsidy. In the barren mountains and mountains, it is icy and snowy. One person opens a shop here. If the uncle does not say it, I also think it is not easy. 40 yuan a plate of double-cooked pork is not too expensive.
After the meal, there was the last ray of light left in the mountains. I wonder if there is a discount for the 100 meters that the uncle said. Turning a corner, a monkey inadvertently jumped onto my backpack and yanked back hard. I was so startled that I was pulled by it, and I sat down on the steps with both hands, tugging at the backpack bag in front of my chest with both hands, afraid that if I let go of my hands and it really stole it, it would be the end of the game. I shouted, trying to get rid of it, but Emei's Poisonous Monkey really lived up to its reputation, it was completely not afraid of my screams and couldn't get rid of it. Later, when I fell back, I knocked it down, and it let go. I got up quickly, ran off the platform and stood with my back against the wall, waving the stick in my hand. Not afraid, the monkey grinned at me, jumped up the railing of the steps, confronted me, and looked up the mountain. Legend has it that you can't really hit the monkey, it will anger it, and it will invite friends to come to revenge. I can't deal with one of them. If there is a group, I don't dare to think about it. His head turned rapidly, and he suddenly remembered that there was food in the bag. Take the bag off your back and unzip it. Seeing this, the monkey also slowly leaned up. I took out a pack of egg yolk pie that I bought at the foot of the mountain in the morning, and threw it down the mountain with all my strength. The monkey chased after it, and I ran away. As he ran, he heard the sound of him tearing the plastic wrap.
Fortunately, the uncle didn't lie to me, the mountain gate of the Xixiangchi is at the next turn. I walked into the mountain gate with trembling knees, and a girl asked me head-on, do you still want to climb up? I can't say no, I need to stay. Then I told her about how I was robbed by monkeys, and she was surprised.
That night, like Sister Xianglin, I was robbed by monkeys when I saw people. The eldest sister in the temple who was in charge of receiving the guests said that you can fight, but you have to fight hard, but generally you can't fight, but if the monkey sees you seriously, he will be afraid. It's no use bluffing, the monkey is smart, he can see it.
There is also a mother and son living in the wash elephant pool, and they seem to be a few years younger than the parent-child group they met before. When my mother heard that I had been attacked, she was very scared, and urged her to go with her the next day. I actually didn't want to, although I was the one who was "bitten by a snake", but when I knew that I could really hit me, I wasn't afraid. The bamboo pole in my hand is nearly three or four centimeters thick, still can't cure your sloppy monkey? But this mother is obviously the type who doesn't go out very often. She's timid, and she has children. I'm a little helpless, these many human beings prefer to believe in rumors, not scientific experience.
The poor accommodation conditions in the temple have long been heard, but the night at the Elephant Pool was beyond my imagination. The five-person room I stayed in was 50 yuan per bed, and there was no one else that night, so I booked the room. Even the whole backyard was covered by me, the girls lived in the front yard, along with the temple staff, and I didn't know where the monk lived. The toilet is to go to the backyard of the backyard, go down two steps and turn three turns. It is still a very old squatting pit, and the pits are separated by a low concrete wall. The mother didn't dare to go to the toilet, so she had to be with another girl. When I woke up in the middle of the night, the empty mountain not far away was silent, the fog was thick, the lights in the aisle were dim, and there was only a little gurgling of water outside the toilet. Although I told the girls when I was chatting at night, there would be no ghosts under the eyes of Buddha, so don't be afraid, but it was really midnight, and I had to force myself to walk in a hurry.
The room was cold, the bed was damp, sub-zero temperature, the only heating facility was the electric blanket on the bed. The high temperature was on from seven o'clock to midnight, and I felt that the bed was a little dry and my body was warmed up. But the down jacket placed next to it was soaked with sweat during the day, and it was still wet in the middle of the night. I remember when I was a child, on winter mornings, my mother got up first, put my cotton jacket over her bed, and I didn't get up until it was warm. Luckily no one was on the other bed that night, so I could turn on another electric blanket and cover my clothes to avoid another shiver in the morning.
Originally, I also brought a computer (so the monkeys must not rob it), and I also wanted to climb the mountain during the day, so as not to delay writing articles at night. But lying on the bed and playing with the mobile phone, my hands will be cold after a while. That night, I didn't even wash my face or brush my teeth, and I had no hope of taking a shower. I went to bed wet and sticky.
Also on this day, I spent time on the road and in bed listening to a two-episode podcast recommended by @Jeger about the paths of faith for two gay Christians. Whether the host of the podcast or the two protagonists and guests, they have their own views on the love of God. They are all gentle and generous, which makes me believe that that is the right temperament that faith should give to an individual.
(To be continued)
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