I can't remember the one that I can't see again, Mazu Nangan's "Five Five Base B&B"

許恩恩
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IPFS
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At the beginning of May, I took a reporter from the Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung to Nangan for an interview. After that, I stayed at the No. 55 base in Nangan. The island was closed by fog, and the eight-person backpack room was exclusively owned by me. The owner of the homestay invited me to have a dinner party, which unexpectedly started a conversation. However, because the bidding has not yet passed, the 55th Base B&B has been closed this month. Write this down to keep 1.55 memories.

The experience of 55 strongholds is irreplaceable.

At the beginning of May, I finished the journey of 100 million for German journalists. In those two days, the weather was chaotic, the fog was frequent, and the tickets were often cancelled and changed. But the reporter still has an interview schedule in Taiwan.

So after I worked hard to buy the first transfer ticket for the German reporter, I squatted outside Fuao Port for half an hour before calling a car to go to the remote 55th B&B. Nangan in the foggy season, I stayed for three more days.

Nangan, Thorn Bird Bookstore. The Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung reporter is visiting the boss Cao Yixiong.

Chen Tinghao, a local, was worried that I would have nothing to eat there, so he took me to the supermarket to buy several hundred yuan of dry food and drinks. I said that I didn't want to go anywhere to play, just stay at the 55th base.

The kitchen can have a buffet breakfast and buy a single egg. If you really want to go out, you can go to Jinsha. I am very familiar with these points.

The business trip was over, so the first thing I did when I checked in on May 5 was to ask, "Do you sell beer?" Just looking out the window, facing the beach of the Jinsha settlement, singing softly (probably actually very loud).

The next day, I would speak loudly on the phone at the window to appease Aunt Rangpin and make sure that if we were stranded because of the weather, we could compensate for the loss.

Wuwu's master and helpers may have heard me say, "Auntie, why are you worried about me running away? The plane didn't fly today, and I'm going back to Taipei just like you." They must have dealt with many detentions. Travelers on the island.

I'm not as anxious as my auntie. I'm a digital nomad. I'll just stay in May 5th. As long as I have an internet connection, I can work and continue to revise the manuscript. But I didn't know that day, the last night, the submarine cable will be damaged, I will be disconnected,

The phone could not be dialed out, the signal was frequently switched to "China Mobile", the telecommunications company sent roaming plans, and the MAC sent me a message of concern.

That was the plot I just saw in "Island: Country" a week ago, Chen Tinghao said to the director while swiping his phone, "My friends in Taipei are all eating BBQ, and the staff are all going back to sleep. I have to sleep here with the students.. ....this may be a signal from China."

I slept very comfortably and it was very cost-effective. I was the only one in the eight-person girls' hostel. "The airport is closed, and the original guests can't come." There are many yoga mats in the hostel, which were left by the artist in residence , for use by passengers. The night I disconnected from the internet, I was only agitated for a while, and the little helper whispered, "Just play with the cat." I did yoga on the floor of the big room that I occupied.

Five Five Base B&B, the cat is also called "Five Five".


The night before that, they invited me to watch a movie and eat pizza and fried chicken. "Anyway, there are no other guests, and the weather is bad, so it's not convenient to go out to eat." There are laptops and projectors in the hall, and the cat is watching carefully. Walk with the leopard on the big screen. Rain is heavy. There are small children, so choose children-friendly movies. Li Wen and Ting Hao also bought beer to join in the fun.

In those days, drinking and drinking felt much the same.

Weather is always the talk of the island. Forget who said one day, "There is no one on the island." It means that there are no more tourists from Taiwan. What kind of person am I? Before boarding the plane, I went to Xiwei Peninsula to make konbu. The participants were local civil servants, people from Lumatai, and Mazu's daughter-in-law. After bagging the konbu, we chatted. The boss said, "Are you the one whose identity hooks 'other'?"

Yes, I am still a tourist. The next morning on Friday, I came to the counter and asked the boss embarrassedly if I could order a latte? The price of drinks is written on the blackboard, but I feel guilty because it feels too unlike a homestay, not a commercial place, but more like a friend’s house. But in short, drinking good quality coffee is still very reassuring.

Nangan.

Organize your interview notes with coffee. In fact, those answers were also very shocking to me. The civilian perspective on military mobilization, the plot of the Fuzhou family, and the life during the wartime government affairs. A few weeks later, the Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung published an article by a German reporter, explaining the history succinctly and fluently, interspersed with interviews, and perhaps the average Taiwanese may not be able to capture this complexity.

Later she asked me why I liked "that" Mazu? I said that the blue sea and the big sun are certainly an island style, but the desolation in winter and the unpredictable thick fog, the culture and local language that are different from the people of the island, and the dense military scenery are not excessively displayed on the sightseeing selling point, etc. Depression is a good thing.

During the few days I was in Nangan, I was almost stationed to accompany the cat Wuwu. The open top-floor terrace, the long and narrow urban space converted from the bunker, every window is a gray-green sea view, and it rains constantly. Time and space feel infinitely derived, long but not tedious, and the comfortable daily life of battlefield reconstruction seems to calm the body and mind.

I saw news a few days ago that the current operator has not won the bid and cannot continue to operate at the original site. At present, they are recruiting personnel to evacuate, and they need to restore the bunker to its original state within the time limit.

Organize interview notes. Five-five strongholds.

The term revitalization of the battlefield is very loud, but it is difficult to do. Every stronghold on the military island is cut down by the terrain, and the difficulty of infrastructure is not as difficult as that of a flat city, let alone the resource scheduling of construction manpower and materials. As a landmark name, the five-five strongholds certainly exist. Just like when I checked in on the first night, there was still a real gun drill on the roof, and the strongholds are still strongholds. But "fifty-five strongholds like that" only existed in memory. Even the hotel itself has become a passer-by of Wuwu.

I'm glad I stayed there for a few days, and I'm glad the fog didn't let me go back to Taiwan early. Stories of tourists and homestays are very common, but the complete battlefield island experience belongs to Matsu's "inconvenience" and an unexpected gain. Vacation after hard work is the most relaxing. This is a belonging created by the environment, hardware and people.

The five-five stronghold homestay that is no longer seen.

Thank you No.55 Hostel - 55 stronghold .

CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

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