Antarctica・further south than the Antarctic Circle

The Antarctic Circle is located at 66°33' south latitude, and the Arctic Circle is located at 66°33' north latitude. In addition to being located in the northern and southern hemispheres, the two have very different geographical environments, climate ecology and governance methods.

The Arctic is a large ice ocean surrounded by continents; the Antarctic is a continent covered with thick ice and surrounded by ice oceans. The average annual temperature in Antarctica is -50°C, while the Arctic is milder, with an average annual temperature of -18°C.

There are parts of the territories of eight countries in the Arctic Circle, including: the United States (Alaska), Russia, Canada, Denmark (Greenland), Iceland, Finland, Norway and Sweden. Through the Arctic Council (Arctic Council), Arctic affairs are implemented and governed. . Although there is Antarctica within the Antarctic Circle, no one lives there permanently and it is not the territory of any country. It is jointly governed and governed by the 56 countries that have signed the Antarctic Convention.

In addition, there are differences in animals between the Arctic and Antarctic. There are bears in the Arctic but no penguins; there are penguins in the Antarctic but no bears. Due to the isolated nature of Antarctica, Antarctic animals may have flown or drifted over at the earliest.

If you haven’t read Day 0, Day 1, Day 2 and Day 3, the article is here:

• Day 0 - Day 1 Antarctica・Ushuaia embarkation

• Day 2 - Day 3 Antarctica·Crossing the Drake Passage

Day 4 Crossing the Antarctic Circle

After breakfast in the morning, I put on my thick coat and went for a walk on the top deck. The wind was biting and it started to snow lightly. Although I had a 360-degree view, I hurried back to the cabin after a while.

After breakfast, the public relations manager made several broadcasts inviting everyone to the top deck at 10:30 to participate in a party across the Antarctic Circle and enjoy a hot pot. It is said that when an expedition ship crosses the Antarctic Circle, it is customary to treat tourists to a hot pot. I don’t know why? But a hot meal at this time should be quite popular.

We lined up to order and pick up food at the open deck bar in sub-zero temperatures with light snowfall. The service staff at the bar worked even harder. They kept helping us pick up the dishes, and their hands were red from the cold. The chef was busy putting the selected ingredients into the pot to cook and add soup.

Because the outdoor temperature was too low, the party was held in the Dome, an indoor saloon on the top floor deck.

When the time came to cross the Antarctic Circle at 66°33'S, the captain appeared at the Dome in time to toast with everyone. In addition to celebrating tourists crossing the Antarctic Circle, it also celebrates World Voyager’s first crossing of the Antarctic Circle since its launch in 2023.

The announcement was broadcast at noon that because the ice on the sea was too thick and it was difficult to cross, the landing at Detaille Island in the afternoon was cancelled, and we continued to move south. I couldn't help but feel sad.

Therefore, the original landing time in the afternoon was changed to two lectures, with team members briefing on snow photography techniques and the formation of glaciers, icebergs and sea ice. In the evening, team members who had worked at the research station introduced Antarctic animals (penguins, seals, whales). etc.) and his work at the research station.

There were also several speeches and briefings before dinner. A team member introduced the Happy Whale login system. If you take a picture of a whale's complete tail, you can upload the photo to indicate the time and place to help track the whale's whereabouts. Because the tail fin of each whale is different, like an ID card, it can be used to identify individual whales. In addition, if the whale is discovered for the first time, the uploader can name it.

In addition, one team member briefed on the knowledge of wind, such as wind types, uses, measurement units and methods, etc.; another team member briefed on the composition and classification of snow, ice and icebergs.

Snow contains 90% air, has low density and is white in color. Since Antarctica is below 0°C all year round, the snow will not melt. After accumulation and squeezing, the air is released and turns into ice. Although ice is transparent, it can reflect the blue color of sea water and sky. The older the ice, the less air and higher density it reflects, the deeper the blue color it reflects.

Sea ice is the freezing of seawater caused by low temperatures on the sea surface. Some sea ice freezes all year round and adheres to the land coast, which is called coastal ice (permanent ice, permanently frozen ice) ; some drifts on the sea and moves with the wind or currents, called floating ice or drift ice . In addition, if a glacier or ice sheet on land flows into the sea, it is called an ice shelf (or ice shelf). Once the front edge of the ice shelf collapses, it is an iceberg .

Before the speech ended, the captain took the stage to express his regret that he could not land on Detaille Island, and reported tomorrow's estimated voyage, possible landing locations, and precautions for boarding a Zodiac (also known as a Zodiac). However, he had to meet with the captain at midnight according to weather conditions and walrus conditions to determine. The captain said that you must have flexibility in preparation and mentality in Antarctica. Because it is very important, he said it three times.

Dinner was with the Taiwanese couple, their children, and son-in-law, the only family on the boat. After graduating from college, the couple went to the United States to study, met, and got married. Both of them have retired. My wife still has family in Taiwan and returns to Taiwan every year. Compared with the few Chinese tourists I had dinner with before, they were more reserved, and my husband called me Ms. Chen all the way, which made me a little uncomfortable.

My feeling today is that it is a pity that I was unable to land, but after listening to several wonderful lectures, I felt like I had learned a lot about Antarctica and gained a lot. In addition, I have not used English for a long time, so I have regressed a lot, and my hearing is getting worse and worse. Fortunately, with the help of pictures, I can still learn a little bit.

Day 5: Morning cruise for the first time in the Antarctic Circle

I woke up in the middle of the night and felt that the boat seemed stationary. I continued to sleep. When I got up in the morning, I opened the curtains and saw, wow! It turned out to be a large area of ​​ice fields and snow-capped mountains. The scene was very different from the few icebergs floating on the sea yesterday. It was really surprising and beautiful.

At 8 o'clock in the morning, it was still breakfast time. The radio suddenly announced that as the weather and walrus conditions permitted, groups would be taken on rubber boats to cruise around Adelaide Island, and the time for each group to dress in the mud room was announced. Everyone was asked Wait for the broadcast notification.

I was assigned to group D and went to the Mud room on the third floor around 10 o'clock. I awkwardly put on a parka, life jacket and rubber boots, and checked each other's life jacket wearing with other tourists in the same group.

Before disembarking, you must swipe your room card and two staff members will assist you in boarding the rubber boat next to the disembarkation ladder. Looking at the floating rubber boats, the deep sea and the icy cold wind, I was really excited and nervous as I am afraid of the cold and can't swim.

Each rubber boat can accommodate eight tourists, plus two members of the expedition team. After everyone was seated, the crew members once again explained the precautions:

1. When getting on and off the rubber boat and being supported by staff, hold your elbows and not shake hands;

2. When getting on or off a rubber boat, you must first step on the hull, and then step on the bottom of the boat or the boarding ladder. Do not step all the way to the bottom;

3. When moving the seat on the rubber boat, you must put your feet on the ground and move with your buttocks, and do not move while standing;

4. When cruising, hold the rope behind your neighbor tightly, not behind yourself;

5. No one is allowed to stand except with the permission of the boat operator;

6. If the boat operator falls into the water, the lanyard around his waist will automatically cut off the motor. Don't worry, just throw the blue waterproof bag to the boat operator.

After cruising around Adelaide Island for about an hour, you can see strange-shaped icebergs. Although they are covered with white snow, they reveal different levels of mysterious and charming blue. Some icebergs even have seals or penguins lying on them.

The mountain walls we passed on the way were full of albatross. The number was astonishing and hard to describe. Unfortunately, the old woman was short-sighted and presbyopic and could not see clearly.

The most unforgettable and amazing thing is to see a group of penguins lining up on the iceberg, and finally gathered in a corner, ready to jump into the sea.

Day 5: Cruise again in the Antarctic Circle in the afternoon

After lunch, Group B will set off first and take a rubber boat to cruise the seaside side of Adelaide Island. Several large icebergs with special shapes can be seen, as well as two large balls of black ice.

Black ice is the densest ice and looks black but is crystal clear on the inside. The members of the expedition team accompanying the boat said that because they are dark in color, they are harder to see, hard and have sharp edges. If they are accidentally hit, they may cut the rubber boat.

In the evening, there is a free activity of jumping into the Antarctic sea. Although the weather is good, about 4°C, the sea water temperature is bound to be even lower.

The staff first used several rubber boats to enclose a space on the sea around the cabin exit. Tourists who want to jump into the sea do not need to sign up, but they must first sign a knot form, put on swimsuits and trunks and line up at the exit of the cabin. When it is their turn, they take off their coats, tie a waist rope to ensure it, and then jump off the edge of the exit stairs. The moment they jumped, the photographer captured their funny or ferocious expressions or postures.

There were 6-70 tourists and several expedition members jumping into the sea on the entire ship, which was more than one-third of the tourists, far exceeding my expectations. As someone who lives in the subtropics, is afraid of the cold and can't swim, I can only say that these people are so brave.

Day 6: Three cruises in the Antarctic Circle in the morning

The weather today is really great, with blue sky and white clouds, and sunny wind.

In the morning, we originally planned to go south around the southern tip of Adelaide Island, then go north, pass through the Adelaide passage, and land at Lagoon Island. However, when the expedition team searched for landing sites around the island, they found that they were too close to the animals, so they could only cruise around in rubber boats. However, canoeing tourists can finally do so today.

During the cruise, in addition to the icebergs, you can see seals showing their little faces in the sea, floating and sinking. Some seals are lying lazily on the icebergs or the stone beaches on the edge of the island to bask in the sun.

The seal here is an Elephant Seal, which is larger than the Weddel seal we saw yesterday. A male seal can reach several tons. They can dive to depths of 300 to 600 meters to find food or remove gas from their bodies, and then surface to rest.

Don't look at the seal's smiling and lazy expression, but when it gets fierce, it is invincible. The seal family is polygamous, and female seals often gather in groups during the breeding season (spring) so that the male seals can breed quickly after they come to their territory (harem). Male seals often use sounds and gestures to assert their sovereignty, and even raise their upper bodies to hit and drive away male seals that intend to invade their territory with their thick chests and teeth.

In addition, during the cruise, we saw a large number of birds standing on the protruding mountain walls, some of which were raising their chicks. I originally thought it was a penguin, but after explanation from the team members, I found out it was an albatross (Diomedeidae).

The albatross is the world's largest seabird, with a wingspan of more than three meters. It can fly 800 kilometers a day and can even sustainably fly 15,000 kilometers over the sea. Albatross are extremely devoted animals. Once a mate is confirmed during the breeding season, they will raise their offspring together for life.

Day 6 Afternoon: Adélie Strait, Antarctic Circle

In the afternoon, we drove south and crossed the Adelaide passage again to Jenny Island. There were large icebergs on both sides, which was very spectacular. Jenny island is a small island next to Adélie Island. It looks like a crown, very eye-catching and very delicate.

Originally expected to land on Jenny Island, the expedition team's first team also found the landing site. However, the captain announced that due to the strong wind and waves, everyone was asked to measure their physical fitness and balance before taking the rubber boat to land.

This time, our group (Group D) started the process. We gathered in the saloon first and waited for notification before getting dressed in the mud room. After waiting for a while, I was told that due to the strong wind and waves, the hull of the boat could not be secured when disembarking from the beach and it might shake violently. Due to safety concerns, it was decided to cancel. We had no choice but to sigh and go back to the room helplessly. We knew that safety was the most important thing, but it was inevitable to regret it.

I had been taken to a window seat for dinner when an American lady passed by and invited me to dine with her and her friends. The woman was single, a retired legal advisor and professor, and the godmother of another woman's daughter. Another woman is married with three children and is still working. The two ladies were college classmates. They have known each other for 45 years and have always kept in touch. They met frequently and often traveled together, and their friendship became even stronger.

Another woman mentioned her diving experience yesterday. She said she jumped in without thinking too much. She didn't feel scared and the water was not as cold as expected. She also said that some people wanted to swim in the Southern Ocean for a while after diving, but they were restrained by ropes and were quickly pulled back because of the long queue behind them.

At 9 p.m., the captain reviews today's itinerary and forecasts tomorrow's itinerary. He said that the captain discussed the results with the captain and other supervisors and decided not to go south to avoid having to spend three days crossing the Drake Passage back to Ushuaia. Tomorrow we plan to cruise north, passing through the Gerlache Strait to the northern tip of the Antarctic Peninsula.

[The above picture is taken from Mapcarta , and the black English place name was added by the author. ]

[The above picture was taken from Mapcarta , and the black place names were added by the author. ]

Looking back on the past few days in the Antarctic Circle, on Day 4, Detaille Island was inaccessible due to the ice in the sea, so we turned back and continued south; on Day 5, Adelaide Island was unable to land, so we cruised once in the morning and afternoon; on Day 6, we planned to land on Lagoon Island and Jenny Island, due to animal and climate factors, the former was changed to a cruise, and the latter was watched on the boat. In addition, everyone was quite disappointed when they heard that they would be cruising north all day tomorrow.

The Antarctic is ever-changing and unpredictable. No wonder the captain always likes to say that everything in Antarctica must be flexible, and he has to say it three times.

Since we will be cruising all day tomorrow and don’t have to get up early, let’s enjoy the room service!

Unless otherwise stated, photos are taken by the author himself.