::Life Record::Nearly Returning Surf

Ever since a friend brought me into contact with me during the summer vacation of my sophomore year, I began to like this sport. Every summer, I always arrange a few days to chase after the waves or get hit by the waves, but I didn’t actually take classes seriously, but I rushed. In the past few years, I have climbed a lot of information videos, and I have become a veritable senior rookie. The waves in the wave area are basically no problem. I can play some skills every time. Occasionally, I dare to challenge the waves in the outside area until I encounter this An unprecedented experience....

The waves after the Mid-Autumn Festival will take some more northeast monsoons, and the average temperature in the sea will drop a lot.

This time, with the typhoon approaching, the whole wave is very exciting. Almost all the masters in the sea are eager to try. I was surfing as usual that day. I watched one of my friends play outside very happily, and my heart was just about to move.

I want to say that I just want to feel the waves. At that time, I was rushing towards my friend with my bodyboard. It was easy for me to cross the waves, and I easily reached the outer sea area with wonderful wind and waves. , it is not easy to swim close to friends

But at this time, we did n't have a sense of crisis. After getting close, we were still chatting and saying that the wave conditions here were really exciting, and we enjoyed the fun of going with the waves. We also discussed how to show off and go back.

It's too late to say it, but there was a big wave pushing my friend's board. The tail of the surfboard hit the back of my head. I felt dizzy and the pain was unbearable. I told my friend directly, I want to go back to the shore. After a while, say ok, let's go up and have a rest

As a result, I swam for a while and found that something was not right. It seemed that I did not move forward?

Feel the current again, it's not good, it's low tide now

No matter how we paddled or swam, at most we could advance a little bit and then be pulled back by the big waves. This time, the waves were not as healing as we had seen before, but instead turned into a monster with fangs and claws, chasing after us. reluctant

We tried our best to keep calm and stay awake, and we continued to swim forward without giving up, but on the one hand, the waves behind us were about a story high (there were even two meters, the waves before the typhoon were no joke). Roll, each one can shoot people directly into the sea, and each wave down is because the buoyancy of the bodyboard is not enough, the waves make me eat the sea water, and the waves also break my mentality bit by bit.

When I was rafting in the sea, my head kept thinking that today should be the last day, I have to go back to the shore, there are many friends who love me there

But no matter how we kick or paddle, the waves at sea and the undercurrents below are always dark and turbulent. My friends and I are holding hands at sea, constantly shouting with confidence, but a wave will wash us away again, and at this time in the sea The body inside, deeply felt the flow of the ebb tide, constantly pulling you back, at this time, I finally realized that the friends who had an accident at sea, how helpless and panic they were before the incident, they are constantly At the time of despair and exhaustion, a friend on the shore finally found out that something was wrong with us

We hurriedly hit the cross pass, hoping that friends can find something different, and quickly help to find rescue, otherwise I really don’t know how to maintain it.

Another friend approached us and pushed the wave board to our side. He grabbed the rope on the other side. The friends at sea and I used our last strength to swim frantically to the shore. Fortunately, really fortunate, that A few waves are really not that big. We barely caught the wave board, and finally got out of trouble and ended this thrilling ride.

After returning to the shore, my friends at sea gave a good hug to celebrate our surviving, and when we were resting, our hands were shaking all the time, and we couldn’t speak at all.

I know this summer's surfing is over, and I probably won't want to surf anymore. After a rest, I feel terrible when I see the waves. The drifting image is deeply in my mind and cannot be dissipated. As soon as I close my eyes, it is the merciless beating of the big waves that day behind me.

You have to learn to die before you can learn to live . I think this sentence, I deeply understand and love my life more, so I am here to share this personal experience with you, I hope you really love it to be timely

PS: I hope you don’t dare to try surfing because of this experience. In fact, this activity is still very charming, just don’t go to the outside area, but at the same time, I hope to catch friends who also love surfing.